The Haircolor Knowledgeable
It by no means fails. Every time I educate one in every of my coloration correction seminars, I’m bombarded with questions from people having issues with getting good protection on resistant gray hair.
In this weblog I’ll give you 6 Golden Secret Rules on the right way to handle gray protection situations. But first, let’s take a look at some attention-grabbing info about gray hair.
There’s No Such Factor as Gray Hair!
To start with, there’s no such thing as actual gray hair. There is only pigmented hair (brown, crimson & blonde) and non-pigmented hair (white).
What we perceive as wet wavy hair being “gray hair” is actually a mix of pigmented hair blended with white hair.
The much less white an individual has, the grayer he/she tends to look. The more white a person has, the less grey he/she tends to look, but the extra white his/her hair seems to be.
This phenomenon is best explained with one thing known as the “Gray Scale”.
This can be a tool used in Black & White images & film, which allows our eyes to actually see totally different tones of shade, which are only made up of the colours black and white intermixed into verging degrees.
Back in the days of Black & White Television, all of us knew that Lucille Ball had brilliant pink hair regardless that no one had a colour tv 🙂
Secret Rule #1
By no means use a straight ash blonde tint on gray (non-pigmented) hair
even if you want an ash blonde completed outcome.
Grey (non-pigmented) hair is ash by nature; subsequently, if you utilize a straight ash tint on it, you’ll get very drab results.
Ash Hair + Ash Tint = Extra Ash/Drab wet wavy hair Color
The hair may look smoky, gunmetal inexperienced, lavender, or steel grey.
Secret Rule #2
To get complete gray protection on resistant grey (non-pigmented) hair, you’ll need to use a degree 8 blonde or darker. (If the hair is a advantageous texture, degree 9 may fit).
Most manufacturers will tell you that, to be able to get good gray protection on resistant gray (non-pigmented) hair, you need to make use of a degree 8 or darker. It’s because in most cases, there is not sufficient dye load into levels 9 or 10 to acquire enough gray coverage on resistant grey (non-pigmented) hair.
Secret Rule #three
Never put a straight cool red tint on grey (non-pigmented) hair.
Gray (non-pigmented) hair lacks warmth (contributing shade pigment/golden & crimson), so it would always show the full affect of the bottom in a tint.
Cool red colours corresponding to RV’s (red violet) and PR’s (purple reds) will look pink within the lighter shades and lavender or mauve in the darker shades. This is because the hair itself has no gold (warmth) to compensate for the tint which would stability out the shade.
The secret Rule #4
Gray (non-pigmented) hair will all the time flip yellow when lightened because of the pheomelanin (pink-yellow) pigment which continues to be in the hair.
The explanation I’m emphasizing that is to be sure you notice that, earlier than lightening gray (non-pigmented) hair, be ready to tone if needed.
Generally you will get fortunate and never have to use a toner at all, but normally, the yellow bleached-up grey (non-pigmented) hair will look raw or straw-like so just be ready to tone if needed.
Secret Rule #5
All grey (non-pigmented) hair isn’t created equal and, subsequently,
is not going to react the identical to tinting, bleaching or toning.
Coarse textured grey (non-pigmented) hair will always react slower and be more stubborn when tinting, bleaching or toning. Finer textured grey (non-pigmented) hair will at all times react quicker to tinting, bleaching and toning.
Needless to say on the identical head of hair, you’ll have a mixture of high quality, medium and coarse grey (non-pigmented) hair. And in some circumstances, chances are you’ll must treat these completely different elements of the head with separate hair coloration formulation.
Secret Rule #6
Typically, when covering 75% to 100% gray (non-pigmented) hair, you’ll have to combine the specified shade with both a gold base tint or a neutral/pure base tint with a view to make up for the lack of warmth within the hair.
Most tints are made to be put on pigmented hair, which can give a contributing color pigment of crimson or gold. Therefore, if engaged on 100% gray (non-pigmented) hair, you will have to combine in the lacking tone (gold/crimson), or each, with a view to make up for the lack of this warmth in the gray (non-pigmented) hair.
If you happen to want to learn to handle every gray Coverage problem you will ever encounter behind the chair, take a look at my book: Trade Secrets of Great Grey Coverage Click on Right here
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